If like me, you’re fed up with the constant wave of flankers (please see my review of the two new CK One flankers) then I hope you will take this post as some kind of remedy, a tonic if you will. I could spend hours and hours moaning about how I hate flankers and name and shame some of the worst, that would be very easy, and not entirely true. What I would like to do instead is just make a few personal recommendations of what I think are some of the best.

What is a Flanker?

Most of you reading this blog will be familiar with flankers but for those who aren’t; a flanker is essentially a fragrance released using the same (or similar) name as another fragrance by the same house, think of it as a sort of sequel, so for example; Live Jazz is a flanker to the original Jazz by Yves Saint Laurent. The actual juice can be very similar, slightly similar or completely unrelated to the original fragrance.

Flankers are a cheap way of marketing a new fragrance without having to spend a huge amount of money on new concepts, bottle moulds and advertising. They are also a great way of marketing a ‘new’ product to consumers who are already fans of the original fragrance.

Not all flankers are bad, some brands use the opportunity to create a new interpretation of an established fragrance and these tend to be the flankers that work best, they bring something new and interesting to the table.

Guerlain Shalimar Ode à la Vanille

What is it? A limited edition of Shalimar released in 2010. Shalimar Ode à la Vanille is a new interpretation of Shalimar that is made as an ode to vanilla made with two different types of vanilla.

Why is it good? Creating a flanker for a classic such as Shalimar is a risky business. The original is held in such high esteem that the idea of a flanker could be considered as an insult to some. Luckily, Guerlain’s in-house perfumer Thierry Wasser knows how to treat the old dame with respect and this limited edition is an interesting re-interpreation of the original. Ode à la Vanille takes Shalimar’s famous vanilla notes and amps them up to beautiful, boozy gourmand sweetness, which at the same time softens the smokiness. The top notes are more citrussy thanks to a helpful dose of grapefruit and there seems to be a more prominent jasmine note in the heart. All in all, Ode à la Vanille is an excellent fragrance and more than worthy of wearing the Shalimar crown.

Alien Liqueur de Parfum by Thierry Mugler

What is it? Alien Liqueur de Parfum was created “following a method inspired by the traditional maturation process of Rum, the original Alien Eau de Parfum is aged in oak casks with an exhilarating and carnal result” [1]

Why is it good? Thierry Mugler is one brand that on the whole creates excellent fragrances and Alien Liqueur de Parfum is a good example of what happens when a brand thinks intelligently about their flankers. Alien Liqueur de Parfum is still recognisably Alien in all of it’s bombastic jasmine glory but it is richer and boozier. Here, Alien’s light citrus notes have been replaced with accents of cherry and almond. Alien Liqueur de Parfum feels sweet and syrupy and I find it a good autumn/winter alternative to the original.

Christian Dior Hypnotic Poison

What is it? The second flanker (Tendre Poison being the first) to Dior’s infamous Poison is intended to be a hypnotising and sensual elixir.

Why is it good? Despite smelling absolutely nothing like the original, Hypnotic Poison certainly fits its name, and in my humble opinion it is the best of all of the Poison fragrances. Hypnotic Poison is a bitter, milky mix of jasmine and almond laid over a warm, creamy vanilla base. It is simply, the nectar of the Gods.

Thierry Mugler A*Men ‘Pure’ Series

What is it? The A*Men Pure series consists of three versions of the original A*Men fragrance (Pure Coffee, Pure Malt and Pure Havane) where one note in particular has been added or emphasised to become the main focus.

Why is it good? The Pure series is yet another good example of the Mugler brands ability to produce high quality flankers. Pure Coffee (my favourite of the three) is A*Men with the coffee notes amplified and it smells like dry, roasted coffee beans. Pure Malt (my least favourite) is A*Men but with sugary sweet (make that REALLY sweet) malt whisky notes and Pure Havane is A*Men with cherry pipe tobacco. All three, Pure Malt especially, have become cult fragrances within the perfumista community.

Jean Paul Gaultier Le Mâle Terrible

What is it? A more grown up version of Jean Paul Gaultier’s famous Le Mâle.

Why is it good? What I like about Le Mâle Terrible is that it is still recognisably Le Mâle (which in turn is THE most recognisable masculine fragrance on Earth), and gives it more of an adult twist. Grapefruit is added to the top notes and vetiver to the base, the effect is less barbershop than the original and more confident and mature. If you like Le Mâle, or don’t like it because it is just too over exposed, then you should give Le Mâle Terrible a try.

Tom Ford Black Orchid Voile de Fleur

What is it? A more floral version of the original Black Orchid in a lighter Eau de Toilette concentration.

Why is it good? To say that Voile de Fleur is just the EDT version of Black Orchid would be completely wrong, in fact they are quite different. Voile de Fleur is a blend of creamy white florals; tuberose, gardenia and jasmine. It has that wonderful ‘flower bud’ quality and it smells like the hot sun beating down on beautiful white blooms. The base is unmistakably Black Orchid, but the scary ‘mushroomy’ parts of the original have been toned down. Weirdly, despite being a lover of big, dramatic fragrances, I prefer Voile de Fleur to the original, it just feels more complete.

Join the Discussion!

I am interested to hear your thoughts!

What do you think about flankers?

What are your favourites?

Please leave your thoughts in the comments box below.

Disclaimer

[1] us.boutique.thierrymugler.com

Image 1 metroparent.com

I like Tom Ford, I find the overall aesthetic of his brand appealing, I thought A Single Man was a triumph for a first time director and he may just be the most ridiculously good looking man on the planet (a fact that makes me hate him just a little). My thoughts on Tom Ford’s perfumes however, aren’t as glowing, in fact they are quite mixed;

Private Blends: I’ve always thought that the Private Blends are OK, I even quite like one or two (Oud Wood especially) but they are ridiculously overpriced for what they are, thus causing my general opinion of them to simply be ‘meh’.

Black Orchid: Gorgeous, dark oriental that is great for half an hour but then it proceeds to get on my tits, it’s one of those scents that, whilst smelling fantastic, takes a lot of effort to wear. I have to be in the right mood for Black Orchid.

White Patchouli: I wanted to love White Patchouli, you don’t know how much I wanted to, the bottle would look so good in my collection and the ad campaign with Erykah Badu was STUN-NING, BUT I point blank refuse to wear anything that smells like French Onion Soup. That said, I haven’t given up on it just yet.

Tom Ford For Men: My boyfriend/fiancée/long suffering wife’s signature scent. What more can I say?

Grey Vetiver: A really nice barbershop vetiver BUT why bother with that when you could have Guerlain Vetiver? One vetiver is enough for me.

Black Orchid Voile de Fleur: Surprisingly, this short-lived flanker to Black Orchid is the best of the bunch, creamy, dirty and slightly spicy flowers, right up my street!

Violet Blonde is the latest fragrance to join Black Orchid and White Patchouli as part of Tom Ford’s ‘Signature Collection’. I guess you’re now thinking, ‘I know what you think of the others, but what about Violet Blonde? Well, to put it simply; Violet Blonde was love at first sniff.

“Tom Ford presents a stunning new scent for a new era of feminine glamour. Tom Ford Violet Blonde is an opulent and dressed-up fragrance that reveals a stunning new facet of violet: ravishing, intriguing elegance. Made with some of the most precious ingredients in the world, it is crafted accordingly to the finest traditions of European perfumery.” [2]

The Notes

Top: Violet Leaf, Mandarin and Pink Pepper
Heart: Iris, Orris Butter, Sambac Jasmine and Sampaquita
Base: Musk, Cedar, Vetiver, Suede and Benzoin [1]

How Does it Smell?

First things first, Violet Blonde is a great name for a fragrance and despite the fact that I keep calling it ‘Violent Blonde’, the name suits this fragrance perfectly.

Violet Blonde unfurls with strong spicy violets. Violet can be a bit of a tricky note, and I have to admit that it’s not my favourite, mainly because lots of violet fragrances have the tendency to smell like ‘Grandma’, and not the cool kind of Grandma (like mine) who wears Shalimar, the dowdy kind that smells of Parma Violets. Where Violet Blonde is different is that along with the violets, which smell suitably dusty and earthy, there is a big dose of pepper (yes, the dreaded pink pepper that is EVERYWHERE at the moment), which gives the violet note a nice spicy lift. There are also a lot of aldehydes up top which add sparkle, which is good because I do love a bit of sparkle, as well as diffusing the sweetness of the violet.

The violets are very prominent during the top notes but as Violet Blonde develops they do take more of a back seat. Iris comes through in the heart, it’s buttery yet powdery and works nicely with the dusty nature of the violets. There are a few touches of other florals, used predominately to lighten, I can definitely smell some lily and jasmine but I have to admit that I get none of the sampaquita mentioned in the notes list.

There is a subtle amount of ‘skank’ running through Violet Blonde that instantly reminds me of Alexander McQueen’s triumphant, yet sorely underrated first fragrance – Kingdom. The cumin/sandalwood combination of Kingdom is mimicked in Violet Blonde, but it’s use is much more subdued and it allows for the floral notes to shine, it doesn’t feel anywhere near as oppressive or dense. Violet Blonde is gold and sparkly after all.

The base is soft and smooth, there is a definite musky quality coalesced with the rootyness of vetiver. There is also a warm, woody aspect that could be sandalwood but feels more like cashmeran, and the effect is very similar to the fuzzy, woody tone of Mugler’s Alien. Luckily for me, the florals do manage to tough it out all the way to the base, and it’s reassuring to get whiffs of those earthy violets every now and then.

Violet Blonde certainly is showy and it is most definitely glamorous. It has good longevity and whilst it’s perhaps not the loudest fragrance on Earth, or of the Tom Ford’s for that matter, it does have presence. I find it to be the most ‘controlled’ of the Tom Ford Signature line, it doesn’t feel the need to put everything out there for all to see, Violet Blonde would rather lure you in and tell you her secrets, she doesn’t need to shout.

The Bottle

The Tom Ford bottles are the epitome of simple, classic beauty. I admire the coherence of the Signature Collection and for Violet Blonde, Ford has dressed the fragrance in his signature bottle, yet this time the bottle is clear and shows the champagne colour of the juice. The gold cap and plaque add a nice finishing touch. I do miss the standard Tom Ford ribbon that adorns the necks of both Black Orchid and White Patchouli, but perhaps Mr Ford wanted to go for something more toned down.

Availability

Violet Blonde is available in 30ml, 50ml and 100ml Eau de Parfum and prices are £45, £60 and £85 respectively.

Disclaimer

This review is based on a bottle of Violet Blonde from my own personal collection.

[1] fragrantica.com

[2] tomford.com

Image 1 via Tom Ford

Image 2 sassisamblog.com

Awards night is always a tad emotional…

2011 has been a big year for the perfume industry, it has seen a total of 1200 [1] new perfume releases and as expected with such a high volume of perfumes being unleashed onto the market, it was a mixed bag – some were great, some were good and some were downright terrible. Sifting through the plethora of perfume releases this year has been great fun and for this end of year round-up I have picked out those fragrances that I feel are the very best of 2011, my ‘best picks’ if you will. These fragrances are the ones that deserve to be celebrated for their artistic merit, flair and quality, oh and because they smell good too!

There are a four main categories; Best Feminine, Best Masculine, Best Niche and Best Flanker, each with a winner, and because there were quite a high amount of fragrances worth celebrating this year I have also included a number of runners up for most categories. In addition to the first four categories I have included an extra one entitled ‘The Candy Perfume Boy’s Best Discoveries of 2011′ which celebrates three fragrances that I have discovered and fallen in love with this year.

Before moving on to my ‘Best Picks of 2011′ I would like to thank each and every one of you who reads and supports this blog. As The Candy Perfume Boy is just about to reach 50,000 hits in the next day or so, I must take a moment to reflect on how great this experience has been so far. I truly value everyone who visits and interacts with me on this blog and my absolute highlight of this year has been the interactions and friendships I have formed through The Candy Perfume Boy and Twitter (you all know who you are!). They are as important, if not more so, than the perfumes that have brought us all together.

So without any further ado, I present to you The Candy Perfume Boy’s Best Picks of 2011…

Best Feminine

Amouage
Honour Woman

I always knew that Amouage would do great things with a big, no-holds-barred white floral and they certainly delivered with Honour Woman. This white floral wins ‘Best Feminine’ because it is euphoric in its beauty and exceptional in its quality. Honour Woman is one of those perfumes that surrounds you with an aura that is beautiful, melancholic and self-assured. If you are a fan of beautiful white florals then Honour Woman is an absolute must try, I would also recommend it to those who think that they don’t like the genre, it has been known to convert a few ‘non-believers’.

Runners Up

Guerlain
Shalimar Parfum Initial

Prada
Candy

Elie Saab
Le Parfum

Tom Ford
Violet Blonde 

Best Masculine

Jean Paul Gaultier
Kokorico 

Although Kokorico won’t make it over the Channel into England until the beginning of 2012 it most definitely has to take the crown of ‘Best Masculine’. Picking 2011′s best masculine was tricky for me, I tend to wear mainly feminine fragrances and it would be fair to say that very few masculine releases wowed me this year and none impressed me more so than Kokorico. Kokorico is a warm, woody fragrance with accents of cocoa, anise and fig that does what all fragrances should do – it smells great.

Runners Up

Thierry Mugler
A*Men Le Goût du Parfum 

Lorenzo Villoresi
Theseus

DSquared2
Potion

Best Niche

Mona di Orio
Oud

Mona di Orio’s fragrances, and Oud in particular, seem to be topping a lot of people’s ‘Best Of’ lists this year, and deservedly so. To me, Oud is an absolute triumph of perfumery, it is by far the most outstanding use of oud in any fragrance and it wipes the floor with the colossal amount of mediocre oud releases we have seen recently. Oud, with its signature blend of oud from Laos and osmanthus, feels like the hot breath of a lover and has the shimmer and sparkle of a glorious sunset. A truly beautiful perfume, what more is there to say?

Runners Up

Neela Vermeire
Trayee

Tauer Perfumes
White Pentachord

Serge Lutens
Jeux du Peau 

Etat Libre d’Orange
Archives 69

Best Flanker

Thierry Mugler
Le Goût du Parfum
(The Taste of Fragrance)

This year Thierry Mugler presented foody variations of four of his fragrances; Angel, Alien, Womanity and A*Men. Each version was shaken up with the addition of a taste enhancer such as bitter cocoa powder, salted butter caramel, fig chutney and red pepper paste – very yummy indeed. This series of four flankers turned out to not only be the best of the year but I would go as far as saying that they are also the most inventive and well put together series of flankers to be seen in a long while. Each foody version was a fascinating essay on the original perfume and in Womanity’s case it demonstrated how a degree of fine-tuning can offer an improvement on the original composition. As always, Thierry Mugler shows us how it should be done – flankers that offer something new, a variation on the original perfumes theme rather than just a variation on the name!

Please see my reviews of each fragrance in the series: Angel, Alien, Womanity and A*Men.

The Candy Perfume Boy’s Best Discoveries of 2011

These three perfumes may not have been released in 2011 but they have made a big impression on me this year.

Amouage
Gold Woman

Gold Woman has become one of my all time favourite perfumes and when I tried it for the first time I could not believe that I hadn’t tried it before, it’s perfect for me – a huge diva of a floral, what more could I ask for?! I am lucky enough to now own a bottle and I shall wear it proudly with abundance.

Tauer Perfumes
Orange Star

Orange Star is a very recent discovery of mine, but boy what a discovery! Who thought that a citrus fragrance could be so damn comforting?! Orange Star showcases Andy Tauer’s flair for creating something unusual yet distinctly familiar and when I wear it, I lay back into its warm, comfortable arms, revel in its beauty and float away.

By Kilian
A Taste of Heaven

A Taste of Heaven wasn’t just a big love for me, it was part of a revelation. Before trying A Taste of Heaven I found lavender to be a tricky note and had only fallen for one lavender perfume (Antiheros by Etat Libre d’Orange). But A Taste of Heaven came along and was the catalyst that sparked my love for one of perfumery’s most complex notes and for that reason I am very glad that I fell in love with it.

Join the Discussion!

That’s it for 2011, but here’s to a wonderfully fragrant 2012! I hope the new year brings you all that you wish for. But for now I would like to hear your thoughts:

What were your best picks of 2011?

Do you agree with the fragrances I have picked? What would you have included?

What was the highlight of your year?

Please leave your thoughts in the comments box below!

Disclaimer

[1] fragrancesoftheworld.com

Image 1 tfl-clan.de
Image 2 exparfum.ru
Image 3 & 8 vonmaur.com
Image 4 larosadeiventiprofumi.com
Image 5 lenoma.ru
Image 6 perfume-bg.eu
Image 7 fragrancesandcosmetics.co.nz
Image 9 shop.lorenzovilloresi.it
Image 10 harveynichols.com
Image 11 monadiorio.com
Image 13 nkdman.co.uk
Image 14 vittoriaprofumi.com
Image 15 polyvore.com
Image 16 luxuryactivist.com
Image 19 apropos-store.com

Oud is a note that seems to have had a great deal of popularity over the last few years. Most perfume houses have an ‘oud’ in their line-up, in fact many have several – anybody who’s anyone has got one. Despite it’s prolific presence in today’s perfume landscape, it cannot be denied that oud is a wonderfully powerful material, that when used properly can be one of the most beautiful smells known to man.

Oud is the jigsaw piece that helps fuse European and Eastern styles of perfumery together, and whilst the oud that is used in western perfumery is much cleaner (and largely synthetic) than that used in the east, it has coloured the face of perfumery in bright arabian hues and taken us on exotic voyages to faraway lands.

Oud

Oud/Oudh/Aoud/Agarwood is a “dark, resinous heartwood” [1] that forms in infected Aquilaria trees. The infection is due to a specific type of mould, that changes the colour and density of the wood, leaving a strong, dark resin (the oud) in the core.

Due to its rarity and variation in quality and scent profile, oud is a very difficult and expensive ingredient to work with, hence why the majority of oud fragrances use a synthetic substitute.

A cross-section of an infected Aquilaria tree.

Reference Oud Fragrances

These are the fragrances that anyone exploring oud should smell, they are, in my opinion, the best of the bunch as it were:

The Classic Oud
Black Aoud by Montale

Black Aoud is a classic blend of oud and rose, with a good deal of patchouli and leather thrown in for good measure. It is perhaps one of the densest and most rich fragrances I have ever tried and for that reason it really needs a lot of time to unfold and develop on the skin, but It is definitely worth the wait.

The oud in Black Aoud is very much the signature oud of Montale, it is mainly sour and medicinal and it works beautifully with the earthy, dusty quality of the rose. Black Aoud very much feels like a barrage of scent upon first application, and I have to admit I enjoy it most about 10 hours in when everything has settled. With time it loses a lot of the heft that represses the beauty it contains. The rose becomes wonderfully powdery and joins the patchouli and oud in a wonderfully heady blend of eastern mysticism.

Black Aoud is available in 50ml and 100ml Eau de Parfum with prices ranging from £70-£100*.

The Masculine Oud
M7 Oud Absolu (formerly known as M7) by Yves Saint Laurent

M7, created under the artistic direction of Tom Ford for Yves Saint Laurent, was the fragrance that threw oud in to the mainstream. It pairs a spicy, and yes largely synthetic oud with rich, ripe fruits, vetiver and amber. The effect is almost like an intensely medicinal bubble gum laid over the cosiest of ambers.

I find M7 to be ridiculously masculine and it is my go to ‘neanderthal fragrance’ for those days when I’m feeling particularly manly, something that is a more regular occurrence than you would imagine. M7 is as stylish as it is manly and I’ve always seen it as somewhat of a ladykiller (or mankiller depending on your preference of course) fragrance that lures people in, ready to be ravaged.

M7 Oud Absolu is available in 80ml Eau de Toilette for £58.

The Cosy Oud
White Aoud by Montale

Due to there being so many ouds within the Montale line, it is no surprise that there are some rather surprising interpretations of the note lurking amongst the more ordinary ones. White Aoud is one of these surprising interpretations, it is the “OH MY GOD IT’S SO FLUFFY’ oud. Or in English ‘The creamy, cosy and snuggly oud’.

White Aoud pairs Montale’s signature oud (sour, medicinal) with saffron, white rose, vanilla and sandalwood. I almost gave White Aoud the title of ‘The Delicious Oud’ because of the strong, creamy vanilla but due to the dry edge of the sandalwood it never quite makes it into gourmand territory.

This snuggly little thing (it’s not little by any means, it’s as loud and bombastic as every other Montale) is one of my favourite ouds and is a go to scent during winter. It smells great, emanating its cosy warmth from my winter scarf.

White Aoud is available in 50ml and 100ml Eau de Parfum, with prices ranging from £70-£100*.

The Barnyard Oud
Al Oudh by L’Artisan Parfumeur

Al Oudh is yet another example of just how amazing Bertrand Duchaufour is (for other examples see L’Artisan’s Vanille Absolument & Traversée du Bosphore and Penhaligon’s Sartorial & Amaranthine). It sits within that category of filthy, animalic perfumes that I like to call ‘barnyard chic’.

This heady blend of spicy, animalic oud, leather, rose and dried fruits is wonderfully filthy and smoky. I find it to be incredibly evocative of the East and out of all of the ouds on the market it feels like the one that you could actually find on a stall in a Middle Eastern bazaar.

For another really good ‘barnyard oud’ I would recommend Oud 27 by Le Labo, which would have been included here if it were a tad more refined.

Al Oudh is available in 100ml Eau de Parfum for £88.

The Downright Weird Oud
Aoud Lime by Montale

Never has their been a weirder fragrance than Aoud Lime…

The house of Montale has oud fragrances coming out of its ears, and the signature of oud of the house is a sour and medicinal blend. With Aoud Lime, Montale amps up the medicinal facets of the oud by pairing it with golden saffron. The effect is strange, yet beautiful.

Aoud Lime smells like lime, but the startling thing is that there is no lime within the composition, instead the infusion of saffron and oud creates a wonderfully true impression of lime.

Aoud lime is weird, wonderful and totally worth it!

Aoud Lime is available in 50ml and 100ml Eau de Parfum, with prices ranging from £70-£100*.

The Stylish Oud
Oud Wood by Tom Ford

I have a somewhat turbulent relationship with Tom Ford’s Private Blends. On the most part I think they are all very well crafted and interesting fragrances, but I also think that they are vastly overpriced for what they are. So far there is only one that I would, and have shelled out for – Oud Wood.

Oud Wood epitomises Tom Ford’s classic style and it is a simply beautiful fragrance. The oud in Oud Wood is spicy, woody and almost rubbery. The contrasting notes of tonka, vanilla and pepper make for a fragrance full of style, class and substance, and it’s one fragrance that I would not want to be without.

Oud Wood is part of Tom Ford’s line of Private Blends and is available in 50ml, 100ml and 250ml Eau de Parfum. Prices range from £125-£285.

The Bewitching Oud
Oud by Mona di Orio

Oud is simply one of the most glorious ouds, if not one of the most glorious fragrances available. I could leave it there, because really that is all you need to know, but I feel compelled to say more.

Unlike a lot of other oud fragrances, Oud uses real oud oil, in this case an incredibly expensive one from Laos. The difference between the synthetic ouds and real oud oil is startling, and in Oud the oud oil is put to good use.

Oud is a glorious blend of oud, osmanthus and amber. The oud is incredibly complex, it smells bready, and rather than being animalic I find it to be incredibly human – like the hot breath of another person. The apricot jam note of the osmanthus adds shimmer and sparkle to the oud and the amber gives a lightly cosy feel.

Words will never be able to describe just how beautiful Oud is, It has to be smelled to be believed.

Oud is part of Mona di Orio’s ‘Les Nombres d’Or’ collection and is available in 100ml Eau de Parfum for £325.

The Cerulean Oud **
OUD by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

OUD makes it clear very quickly that it is a different breed of oud perfume. Where most ouds are coloured in deep reds or rich browns, OUD is hued a pure cerulean blue. It is a mesmerising blend of bright, candied citrus, smooth oud and a big airy laundry musk. On paper it shouldn’t work but in reality it is one of the most unique and startling oud perfumes to have been released.

OUD is available in 70ml Eau de Parfum for £175.

The Pornographic Oud ***
Leather Oud (La Collection Privée) by Christian Dior

Yep, you read that right, this one definitely is “The Pornographic Oud”. A rich, honeyed blend of smoky leather, sour oud and dry woods make for one of the sexiest fragrances around.

Leather Oud is raunch bottled and it lures you in with a promise of wild night between the sheets. Despite it’s carnal nature it is a surprisingly versatile fragrance that, whilst being rather tenacious, isn’t loud or oppressive and could be worn in most situations. You wear Leather Oud, it does not wear you. You are in control of your own raunch.

Leather Oud is available in 125ml, 250ml and 450ml Eau de Parfum. Prices start at £125.

Join the Discussion

Do you love or loathe oud?

What are your reference ouds?

Do you agree with my choices?

Which perfumes do you think should be included in this guide?

Please leave your thoughts in the comments box below!

The Candy Perfume Boy’s Guide to…

Other installments in the series:

The Candy Perfume Boy’s Guide to Tuberose

The Candy Perfume Boy’s Guide to Lavender

Disclaimer

[1] wikipedia.com

Image 1 kjanicki-sotd.blogspot.com
Image 2 cafleurbon.com

* Prices converted from USD
** added 02 April 2012
*** added 17 May 2012 

I have to admit that I’m not the hugest fan of leather in fragrance, mainly because I really haven’t a great deal of exposure to the note, which is why I was particularly interested in attending last week’s ‘Evening of Leather’ organised by Lila Das Gupta of Perfume Lovers London/Olfactory Events. I wanted to explore leather, deconstruct and understand it, but most of all I wanted to find a leather that I loved.

Perfume Lovers London is a Meetup Group run by Olfactory Events in conjunction with Basenotes. They have so far held two events, with many more exciting meet ups in the pipeline. An Evening of Leather was hosted by Lila Das Gupta who has a penchant for leather fragrances, was the perfect captain for our voyage of discovery of a note that is steeped in history and comes in many guises.

An Evening of Leather promised to “map out the geography of leather fragrances from the meaty to the haughty” and I’m please to say that it was an event that delivered on all counts. I may have walked into the event being clueless about, and not really loving leather but I left with a new found appreciation for the genre and a head full of leather fragrances that demanded to be explored further.

The leathers - from the historic to the maverick

The evening started in the way that all good perfume events do – with wine and chat with like-minded lovers of perfume. It was great to catch up with friends and finally meet other bloggers such as Vanessa from Bonkers About Perfume (technically a re-meet), Tara of Olfactoria’s Travels and Katie Puckrik of Katie Puckrik Smells.

Once the small talk had subsided and we had taken our seats the evening kicked off with a brief introduction to the history of leather in perfume. I found it quite fascinating to learn that leather notes in perfume stem from tanneries in Grasse, where leathers (which had been treated with such lovely-smelling substances as urine and faeces) were scented to take away the ghastly smell. Materials such as orris, civet and jasmine were used to perfume leather and as the need for scent on leather diminished people still demanded that smell that they associated with the luxury of leather, hence the birth of the leather perfume.

Historic Leathers

Cuir de Russie by Chanel
Knize Ten
Tabac Blond by Caron
Habanita by Molinard
Cuir by LT Piver

The first category of perfumes that we smelled was the ‘Historic Leathers’ and we kicked off with Knize Ten, a fragrance that I had never smelled before despite the fact that it has a huge cult following. To me Knize Ten was very sweet and slightly powdery and one person commented on how it had a distinct insect repellent-vibe and I can definitely go a long with that.

The second historic leather that we tried was Cuir de Russie by Chanel, another incredibly popular fragrance that I cannot seem to get on with (although, I wonder if I persisted like Dee of Beauty on the Outside I could learn to love it). My notes on Cuir de Russie simply read “Salty, sweet ham. Aldehydes – vaguely floral.” and my overall impression is of respect rather than enjoyment.

Lila then talked about how leather perfumes were intrinsically linked to the emancipation of women. Perfumes such as Tabac Blond by Caron and Habanita by Molinard were for daring women, women who smoked and knew how to have a good time. Out of all of these historic leathers Habanita was the most interesting, mainly because it wasn’t as bad-ass as I imagined it to be, a fact that, at first was a big disappointment to me but with time it has led me to be more intrigued.

Cheap and Cheerful Leathers

English Leather by Dana
Imperial Leather by Cussons

After a quick blind sniff of two leathers (Scent A: English Leather by Dana – Citrus, lime, woody & Scent B: Cuir by LT Piver – Pine, menthol, honey) we looked at the cheap and cheerful leathers. These two, as Lila described, were a regression from the strong and powerful historic leathers, and belonged to a genre that hinted that leather may have lost its way somewhere. This is a fact that was only emphasised by two very un-feminist (and rather tacky) TV commercials.

Before we moved swiftly onto the next category, Liz Moores of the upcoming brand Papillon Perfumer took the stage to discuss and let us test some of the raw materials used in creating a leather perfume. We tried Birch Tar, which smells exactly like creosote and Quinoline, which smelled exactly like mushy peas. These two materials smelled pretty damn awful on their own but when we waved the smelling strips together you could smell the basics of a leather accord forming.

Maverick Leathers

Lonestar Memories by Tauer Perfumes
Dzing! by L’Artisan Parfumeur

These maverick leathers could also be described as the weird and wonderful leathers. Tauer’s Lonestar Memories is a wonderfully smoky leather with the birch tar pushed to extremes – think beef jerky and you’re on the right track. Dzing! is a bonkers circus leather that smells suitably barnyard-y and like hot leather seats in the sun. Lonestar Memories is wonderful but not for me, Dzing! however is an absolute lemming. Must. Have.

The Middle Ground

Cuir d’Iris by Parfumerie Générale
Cuir de Lancôme
Cuir Ottoman by Parfum d’Empire

After the Maverick Leathers we moved on to The Middle Ground which, despite the name, showcased some rather interesting perfumes. Cuir de Iris by Parfumerie Générale with its perfect blend of sherbet, iris and a velvety smooth leather was the standout, however Cuir de Lancôme, a lovely buttery leather wasn’t too far behind. It seems that for once in the world of perfume I, The Candy Perfume Boy – the guy that loves his perfumes BIG, is happy to settle for the middle ground. There’s a first time for everything!

Beautifully Blended

Azurée by Estée Lauder
Quorum by Puig
Coze by Parfumerie Générale
Vanille by Mona di Orio
Cuir Beluga by Guerlain
Leather Mahon by Floris
Cuir Noire by Armani Privé
Habit Rouge by Guerlain

These were the fragrances that contained leather but didn’t necessarily let it take centre stage. As expected, this category was a mixed bag, not only of styles but also of successes. Habit Rouge and Azurée were the only ones that spoke to me (I do love my Guerlain’s and Lauder’s) but both would probably still rank as my least favourite from those lines. Still, it was interesting and important to see how leather can be used as a supporting act rather than the lead.

Soft Suedes

Daim Blond by Serge Lutens
Bottega Veneta
Kelly Calèche by Hermés
Cuir Venenum by Parfumerie Générale

The soft suedes were an interesting bunch and a very good starting place for those who may consider themselves as leatherphobes. Unsurprisingly there were no real stands out for me in this category (we all know how I feel about Bottega Veneta), perhaps because I do like a bit of oomph (that said, Daim Blond certainly has its fair share), but also because I can already get my suede-fix from Etat Libre d’Orange’s Tom of Finland and L’Artisan Parfumeur’s Traversée du Bosphore.

Full-On Leather

Cuir by Mona di Orio
Cuiron by Helmut Lang
Tuscan Leather by Tom Ford

When Lila described these as full on she really meant it! Cuir by Mona di Orio is a tour de force of a leather perfume, its full of sweaty cumin and meaty chorizo-like leather whereas Tom Ford’s Tuscan Leather is the perfect representation of that new car smell, a novelty that nearly everyone can’t help but love. As much as I was shocked by these two at first I cannot help but want to get to know them better, Cuir especially.

Sex God

Leather Oud by Christian Dior

The last category we looked at was the Sex God Leathers which simply consist of one perfume – Leather Oud by Christian Dior, a perfume that when smelled leads one to think of ‘downstairs thoughts’. I cannot sum Leather Oud up any better than Lila’s description of ‘Sex God’ so I best leave it there, what I will say is that it smells pants-tearingly good.

After our exploration through each category we were treated to the results of the Annual Basenotes Reader Awards, during which we, in true pantomime style cheered, booed and hissed at the winners and losers.

The Evening of Leather was rounded off with the opportunity of smelling all of the leathers as well as the Basenotes winners/losers and the opportunity to mingle with the other attendees. We were also all given a leather bracelet which we could scent with a leather of our choice, I chose Dzing! (naturally) and I haven’t taken the bracelet off since.

I had an absolute ball at the event and thought it may have been my first Perfume Lovers London meet up, it certainly will not be my last. If you are in or around London you should check the Meet Up page for upcoming events, you will not be disappointed!

For other write ups please head over to Bonkers About Perfume and Basenotes.

Disclaimer

Both images are my own.

Katie Puckrik Does Indeed ‘Smell’

YouTube frightens me slightly. Maybe I’m just a wimp but despite the wealth of content YouTube has more loons, weirdos (not the good kind) and trolls than any of the other ‘tubes’, including the London Underground, which indeed has its fair share. Other than the odd music video and occasional perfume-related video I really don’t visit it much and I admire those who can put themselves out there, warts and all.

One person who is not afraid of YouTube and actively embraces the medium with as much gusto as one person can conjure is Katie Puckrik of Katie Puckrik Smells. Katie’s YouTube reviews are pithy, fun and are splashed with charismatic wit, which is no surprise as Katie Puckrik is someone with oodles of charisma and she has been a key player in changing the way that perfume is discussed.

As a general rule of thumb I am not a big fan of YouTube perfume reviews, with my tastes lying with the written word rather than the spoken, but I always make sure I watch Katie’s videos because she talks about scent in not only an intelligent way, but because she makes it so much fun. It was for this reason that I jumped at the chance of spending an evening with Katie Puckrik organised by Olfactory Events and Perfume Lovers London.

The Candy Perfume Boy & Katie Puckrik

For ‘Katie Puckrik Smells – And How!” Katie took us into the domain of YouTube perfume reviews – the good, the bad and the ugly. Not forgetting the satanists, angry teenage girls and 40 year old guys that make up such a colourful world of weird.

After awakening a love for perfume Katie was encouraged to start talking about the subject on YouTube by her husband, perhaps for “self-preservation” Katie notes, but the encouragement was certainly not misdirected, regardless of the intentions. Katie’s introduction to YouTube was a baptism of fire, in which she received her fair share of negative troll-like comments from its wonderful residents as well as a bunch of fabulous, yet bizarre requests from viewers.

Katie’s “Viewer Mail” segment was the main focus of the evening and she shared with us her favourite requests, which ranged from the odd to to the downright troubling, along with her recommendations, which we were able to smell, rate, slate fall in love with as she contributed her own zany, yet spot on descriptions.

Help Me Fake a Sex Life

Cologne by Thierry Mugler
Boudoir by Vivienne Westwood
Féminité du Bois by Serge Lutens
Muscs Koublaï Khän
Amaranthine by Penhaligon’s
Putain des Palaces by Etat Libre d’Orange

One very interesting request (from a psychological standpoint) came from a reader who wrote:

“…is there a sex-scented perfume? My ex is coming over next week to pick up her stuff, and I was thinking of ways that I could make her jealous via the façade of an active sex life.” [1]

Katie, who is not one to shy away from a challenge, came up with a multitude of ‘sex-scents’ that represent both the masculine and feminine smells of coitus.

The plethora of pungent procreation-related suggestions ranged from the clean & fresh yet saline and sperm-y Mugler Cologne to the musky, sweaty and downright filthy lady’s undergarments of Boudoir by Vivienne Westwood, along with the sweaty skin covered by a strong floral of Putain des Palaces by Etat Libre d’Orange and the incredibly human Muscs Koublaï Khän by Serge Lutens.

For this conundrum Katie also consulted with Sensory Psychologist Avery Gilbert who provided the following nugget of information:

“As a student of animal sex behaviour – including what’s politely referred to as the “competitive mating scenario” – I can suggest a couple of olfactory tactics for Mr. Pseudo.

Does his ex have a sister? If so, then spritz around a bit of the sister’s favourite scent. Or the perfume of the ex’s bestest girlfriend.

Context makes a big difference in odor perception. So be sure to leave an unfamiliar toothbrush on the bathroom sink and a thong hanging on the inside doorknob.” [2]

How wonderful is that?! All of the suggestions in this category were spot on for me, especially Boudoir and Putain des Palaces, both of which give that impression of ruffled sheets on a bed that has just been inhabited by two rather sweaty bodies.

The real surprise, however, was Féminité du Bois, which I’ve never really considered to be evocative of naughty night-time antics, but such is the power of the Puckrik persuasion. Smelling it now there is a real sweaty quality to it that is undeniably human and ravishingly sexy.

I Want to Smell Like My Dog’s Paws

Bois Farine by L’Artisan Parfumeur
Like This by Etat Libre d’Orange and Tilda Swinton

We’re all familiar with the smell of dog, both the lovely snuggly variety and the slightly-less-lovely wet version. Not being a dog person (being a perfumista means that I must sit on the feline side of the fence – it’s the law) means that I’m rather unfamiliar with the smell of canine paws, but it seems that Katie’s readers/viewers are, one writes:

“I’m a dog person and my number one comfort scent is the smell of dog’s paws. Go ahead and stick your nose between Rodrigo’s (Katie’s dog) toes. Did you smell Fritos?

…Now, I don’t want to go rubbing corn chips over my body, but is there anything out there that would push similar olfactory buttons?” [3]

So what were Puckrick’s picks for tortilla chip dog paws? Well Bois Farine by L’Artisan Parfumeur and Like This by Etat Libre d’Orange & Tilda Swinton of course! Neither fragrances are particularly animal but both share a warm yeasty, bready quality that does smell comforting and snuggly. Bois Farine was perhaps a little too off the wall for me, it does smell like flour after all and I’d see it as a curiosity rather than something I would wear. Like This, however, is one of my all time favourites – a triumph of warm, homely perfumery.

 I Want to Smell Like a Skunk

Black Afgano by Nasomatto

If you thought that wanting to smell like a dog’s paws was odd then you best prepared for the next viewer request, which came from a viewer who wished to smell like the smelliest of animals, the skunk:

“Ever since I was small, I have liked the smell of skunks in the distance. Not a close-up, just got sprayed, time to break out the tomato juice skunk, but more like road kill skunk the next street over” [4]

Skunks aren’t really a big thing here, not that I think their particular in fashion in the US, but you get what i mean, so it stands to reason that I have no idea what a skunk smells like, but if road-kill skunk is anything like Katie’s suggestion of Black Afgano by Nasomatto then they can’t be all bad.

Black Afgano is a heady, overpowering blend of hashih, burned weeds, resins, tobacco and oud. It has an underlying acrid quality that is at once unsettling and addictive, it almost burns your nose hairs. This rich and tenacious fragrance perfectly represents the animalic beauty of the skunk, or at least what I imagine that animalic beauty to be. Pepe le Pew never smelled so good.

I Want to Smell Like Chinese Air Pollution

Dzonghka by L’Artisan Parfumeur
Jasmin et Cigarette by Etat Libre d’Orange

Yep, you heard that right, someone wants to smell like Chinese air pollution. This particular request came from a viewer who had spent a lot of time in China growing up and who wrote:

“…whenever I smell industrial smoke or cigarette smoke it’s very nostalgic (and lung cancer-inducing)… I’m looking for a tobacco-y smoky incense-y scent with maybe some tea or herbal notes…” [5]

This was no mean feat for Katie Puckrick whose two suggestions – Dzonghka and Jasmin et Cigarette – both fit the bill pretty well. Jasmin et Cigarette is a melange of fruit, hay, industrial jasmine and a tobacco note that is more freshly opened pack of Malboros rather than overfilled ashtray. Dzonghka on the other hand is a bizarre mineral filled incense and is both austere and smoky. Layered together they would give the impression of unclean, smoke-filled air.

‘Femme Fatale’ Fragrances for Men

Black Orchid by Tom Ford
Mitsouko by Guerlain
Nuda by Nasomatto

Now this is a request I can understand! This rather fabulous gentleman is a big fan of women’s fragrances, but not just any women’s fragrance, no, he likes the bitchiest femme fatale fragrances he can get his hands on, he writes:

“I am a man that loves wearing — here’s the rub — “femme fatale” fragrances. We’re talking Tom Ford Black Orchid, Dior Poison: dark, heady, thick, baroque, bewitching, mysterious.

These fragrances generally seem to be fruity florals, which I especially like with a little “repulsion” — animal and indole with my fruit and flowers really light me up…

…The problem is, most fruity florals I find are more, as you put it, “sorority walk of shame” than femme fatale…

…As Sandra Cisneros wrote in The House on Mango Street:

“In the movies there is always one with red lips who is beautiful and cruel. She is the one who drives the men crazy and laughs them all away. Her power is her own. She will not give it away.”

Any suggestions on how I can smell like that?” [6]

Of course Katie had some pretty spectacular suggestions for a “un homme fatale”, the standout of which was Nuda, another Nasomatto fragrance. Nuda is most definitely a femme fatale, she stuns you with a huge dose of indole then lures you in with a jasmine note that can only be described as ‘full-on’. It is surprisingly unisex for such a strong white floral.

Nuda also has some wonderfully fruity and tropical things going on underneath the jasmine and indole. A big slug of ripe-banana-like ylang ylang really heats things up and after a few minutes of smelling it, it was very clear that this white floral lover NEEDS a bottle of this in his collection. Does that make me “un homme fatal”?

All In All…

… the evening was a great success! Katie has a wonderfully engaging character that makes you sit up and listen. She also as a unique way of describing scent, mixing wit, uncanny associations and a bit of raunch in an irresistible cocktail that is hard to ignore and even harder not to love!

A massive thank you to Katie Puckrik and Lila Das Gupta for organising such a wonderful evening. For further information about upcoming events please visit the Perfume Lovers London Meetup Page.

Disclaimer

Image 1 katiepuckriksmells.com
Image 2 my own
Image 3 memosfromthepurplecouch.com
Image 4 ehow.com
Image 5 digitalcitizen.ca
Image 6 panoramio.com
Image 7 msafropolitan.com

A Gaggle of Perfume Bloggers: Birgit & Tara of Olfactoria’s Travels, Vanessa of Bonkers About Perfume and me, The Candy Perfume Boy.

The Perfume Lovers London events organised by Lila Das Gupta as part of Olfactory Events are a fabulous opportunity to learn about perfume, to talk to and meet with like minded perfumeophiles and discover a plethora of new, exciting perfumes. It’s safe to say that every event is a joy to attend so the news that one of my favourite bloggers, Birgit of Olfactoria’s Travels, was going to be holding her very own event was very exciting indeed!

I’m sure that I’m preaching to the choir here, but Olfactoria’s Travels has become a go-to blog for many perfume lovers and it’s teeming with beautifully written reviews, informed discussion and passion from Birgit and Tara, who have both changed the face of the perfume blogosphere.

For her event, Birgit promised to take us on a journey through the world of amber, a sensible subject choice seeing as she has rightfully earned the title of “Queen of Amber” through her love for the genre. Now, I’ve made it no secret that amber isn’t my favourite genre of perfumes, but that’s not to say that I don’t like it either, I simply haven’t had the right amount of exposure to it, but now thanks to Birgit and Perfume Lovers London I feels as if I am well-versed on the subject!

The Candy Perfume Boy (complete with funny eye squint) and Olfactoria

The evening kicked off with an introduction from Lila, who emphasised just how popular Olfactoria’s Travels has become in such a short period of time (18 months), a fact which is a testament to the quality of the blog. Birgit followed up with background on herself, her career (a psychotherapist by trade – “as is customary in Vienna”) and how she fell down the perfumed rabbit hole.

In the beginning Birgit (hereafter referred to as B) was content with her bottle of Chanel’s Coco Mademoiselle, that was until she stumbled across Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle in a department store, and it was then that she found the perfume that started it all, the catalyst that birthed the travels of Olfactoria. That perfume was Olivia Giacobetti’s En Passant, and this beautiful, fresh, green lilac was the perfume that kick-started B’s love for perfume – “it was new because it captured nature”.

Real Amber of the Fossilised Tree-Sap Variety

After trying the perfume that started it all we were treated to an overview of amber, what it is (the basic accord being labdanum, benzoin and vanilla) and what it isn’t (ambergris or fossilised tree resin – although it is inspired by the latter.

We even got to smell the three raw materials that make up the accord in isolation; labdanum – spicy, woody and sticky smelling; benzoin – fuzzy, soft caramel; and vanilla – sweet, salty, spicy and smooth. I always enjoy smelling perfume ingredients, it’s an invaluable exercise aquatinting yourself with the individual puzzle pieces that make up the smells we are so familiar with, and I wish I could just douse myself in pure benzoin – that stuff is delicious.

After our overview it was time to meet the ambers…

L’Artisan Parfumeur L’Eau d’Ambre

The Starter Ambers

L’Artisan Parfumeur – L’Eau d’Ambre
Etro – Amber
Agent Provocateur – Strip
Christian Dior La Collection Privée – Ambre Nuit

B’s first foray into amber was with “the amber for people who don’t like amber” also known as L’Eau d’Ambre by L’Artisan Parfumeur. L’Eau d’Ambre is an amber that emphasises the accord’s spicier facets and it showcases a wonderful dusting of cinnamon that makes it easy to love. Another thing acting in its favour is the fact that it is the perfume that L’Artisan Parfumeur uses to scent their awesome amber balls – who wouldn’t want to smell like those?

Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan

Heavy Hitters

Serge Lutens – Ambre Sultan
Annick Goutal – Ambre Fétiche
Parfum d’Empire – Ambre Russe

At this point B started to take us into full-blown amber territory. We moved on from the namby-pamby starter ambers on to the proper amber perfumes, the most amber-y and famous of which was Serge Lutens’ Ambre Sultan. B explained that she has a “back and forth” relationship with Serge Lutens, regularly falling in and out of love with his perfumes, but Ambre Sultan is the “exception to the evil cycle” and it’s easy to see why, it is a beautifully furry amber with a large dose of herbal notes and a strange, anisic quality.

We also tried Ambre Fétiche by Annick Goutal, a house that I don’t have a great track record with, but I think AF could go a long way to change that, it’s a strong amber with an unusual nutty character that is a little unsettling but definitely interesting. One member of the group described it as smelling “like going to a male temple”.

Tom Ford Amber Absolute

American Male Superheroes

Tom Ford Private Blend – Amber Absolute
Armani Privé – Ambre d’Orient
Histoires de Parfums – Ambre 114

These ambers, as described by B, are the “square jawed, good men, but not necessarily intelligent” members of the posse. Tom Ford’s Amber Absolute very much seemed like an amber-by-numbers, like Mr. Ford himself it was impeccably turned out and tried its hardest to push all the right buttons. B said that Amber Absolute smelled much better on skin than paper, so a few of us (myself included) offered our arms up as human tester strips, and it’s true, it is much better on skin.

The second amber of the superhero-bunch was Armani Privé’s Ambre d’Orient, which turned out to be a relatively sweet amber in comparison to the Tom Ford, and despite a light liquorice vibe it sat very nicely in this category of handsome, wholesome ambers.

Mona di Orio Ambre

Powdery Ambers

Coudray – Amber et Vanille
Mona di Orio – Ambre

Mona di Orio’s Ambre doesn’t follow her usual “takes no prisoners” vibe, a vibe that can easily be applied to her Cuir if you ask me, but that’s beside the point. This one is very powdery, soft and feminine. I would liken it to baby powder for grown-ups because it feels like a fleshed and spiced up version of Mona di Orio’s other powdery scent Musc, a perfume that B insisted that we all try. *

Christian Dior Mitzah

Dead Center Ambers

Christian Dior La Collection Privée – Mitzah
Maître Parfumeur et Gantier – Ambre Précieux

The Dead Centre Ambers represented the middle ground of the amber world and none are more dead centre than Dior’s Mitzah. Mitzah, which was named after Christian Dior’s muse Mitzah Bricard, “represents the geographical centre – not to sweet, not to smoky, not to spicy, not to loud and not to quiet”. For me Mitzah was the surprise of the night, firstly because in my brain I had thought it was one the florals in La Collection Privée, and secondly because it really is very well balanced. Mitzah certainly was intriguing and I assured that it was my sample-of-choice to take home.

Amouage Opus VI

Summer Amber

Amouage - Opus VI

B described the final amber (on the evening and in her review), Amouage’s latest addition to their Library Collection as the “Star Trek Amber” because of its “holographic” quality. This description is very interesting because Opus VI is VERY different from the heavy, spice-laden ambers that made up most of B’s entourage and I don’t think it can be more perfectly summed up than being “see-through, weightless but still perfectly formed”

Estée Lauder Youth Dew Amber Nude

80s Vintage Ambers

Calvin Klein – Obsession
Estée Lauder – Youth Dew Amber Nude

Armani Privé Ambre Soie

Amber and Friends

Caron – Pour un Homme
Armani Privé – Ambre Soie
Shiloh – X

The two final ‘bonus categories’ were left for us to explore at the very end of the event and contained vintage ambers of perfumes associated with the genre but not quite within it. The highlight of these categories was the vintage scents and It was good fun to try vintage Obsession, I do like my 80s powerhouses after all!

An evening with Olfactoria “Queen of Amber” was a fabulous induction into the world of amber. Just like the Perfume Lovers London Evening of Leather, I walked away with a new-found appreciation of a perfume genre that I hadn’t really paid a huge amount of attention to before, as well as having discovered some very interesting perfumes that require further investigation.

It was also incredibly lovely to finally meet Birgit, who is just as wonderful and engaging as I imagined her to be, she did a fabulous job with the evening and successfully managed to impart a good deal of her perfume knowledge on those who attended. She really knows her stuff and it was clear throughout that perfume really is her passion, and amber is her poison! Here’s hoping that we’ll have the opportunity to join Olfactoria on her travels again some time in the future.

For other accounts of the evening please head over to Olfactoria’s Travels to read Tara’s fabulous write up and to Bonkers About Perfume to read Vanessa’s also-fabulous write up.

Disclaimer

Image 1 & 2 my own, Image 3 theendofhistoryshop.blogspot.com, Image 4 spitfiregirl.com, Image 5 butik-paris.com, Image 6 polyvore.com, Image 7 vanitypolygon.com, Image 8 lenoma.ru, Image 9 mparis.ru, Image 10 fashionls.com, Image 11 selfridges.com

* updated  21 May – misread my notes.

Two Handsome Men

Mr. Butterworth, my rather lovely partner-in-crime and Mr. Ford, the dashing designer behind Tom Ford go hand-in-hand. Well, not literally of course. I know that you know that I’d never allow that kind of shenanigans! What I mean is that, whilst not being a fumenerd like you are I, Mr. Butterworth does have a certain penchant for fragrances bearing Mr. Ford’s name.

If you were to take a peek into mine and Mr. Butterworth’s bathroom you would find a big collection of perfumes and although we share a lot of scents there is most definitely a ‘his ‘n’ hers’ thing going on. So if you look hard enough you will see a small contingent of masculine fragrances that belong solely to the Butterworth (although I do occasionally raid his stash), and three of his favourites are by Tom Ford.

Tom Ford currently has four masculine fragrances and about a million unisex private blends to choose from. Mr. Butterworth, with his ever-discerning taste, has found love for Tom Ford for Men, Oud Wood and Grey Vetiver, you could say that he’s a little bit obsessed. Should I be worried? Let’s just say that I will be keeping a close eye on him next time we’re near the Tom Ford counter

Tom Ford for Men

The Notes

Top: Lemon Leafs, Violet, Ginger, Bergamot, Basil and Mandarin Orange
Heart: Orange Blossom, Black Pepper, Tobacco, Grapefruit and Blossom
Base: Amber, Cedar, Patchouli, Vetiver, Moss, Leather and Cypriol

How Does it Smell?

I cannot approach Tom Ford for Men and review it objectively, it simply isn’t possible. My bias towards it is something that is completely natural and of course entirely unintentional. You see, the reason why I can only look at it positively is because it is the smell that I most associate with Mr. Butterworth. Tom Ford for Men is his smell.

Tom Ford for Men opens with a big cacophony of citrus notes, to my nose the lime shouts loudest over the din and it smells mouthwateringly sweet, sour and juicy all at once. Golden ginger, spices and herbs underpin the sweetness of the fruit, making Tom Ford for Men appear appear to shimmer in a thousand hues like the metallic paint job of an expensive car seen from different angles.

With time the effervescent of the citrus subdues and Tom Ford for Men warms up considerably. It becomes quite leathery with touches of sweet amber and orange blossom. Despite the long list of notes I don’t find it to be overly complicated, it is relatively refined and says what it has to say in a straightforward and simple manner.

All in all Tom Ford for Men is a rather handsome, stylish masculine for the kind of man that would wear one of Mr. Ford’s suits. It isn’t groundbreaking, nor is it particularly new in terms of style, it’s just very well done and it really does smell good on a rather handsome man.

To me Tom Ford for Men is the smell of happiness, of true love, comfort and friendship. It is the smell of my favourite person. So yeah, I’m kinda biased…

Availability

Tom Ford for Men is available in 50ml and 100ml Eau de Toilette with prices ranging from £45-£60.

Oud Wood

The Notes

Top: Pepper, Cardamom and Rosewood
Heart: Agarwood, Sandalwood and Vetiver
Base: Tonka Bean, Vanilla and Amber

How Does it Smell?

Mr. Butterworth and I had been lusting after a bottle of Oud Wood ever since we discovered it during a visit to the Tom Ford counter way back in 2008. Don’t ask me why it has taken four years for us to bite the bullet and buy a bottle, I honestly don’t know, but our bottle has quickly become a staple for the both of us.

Mr. Ford is reputed to have been the man who first brought oud into mainstream western perfumery by using it (well, a synthetic oud substitute anyway) in YSL’s ground breaking M7 way back in 2002. Oud Wood is very much a variation on M7s theme – an oud for western tastes, and whilst it may not be a mind-blowing skank-bomb it is a rather beautiful take on perfumery’s most sought after ingredient.

Oud Wood is very peppery up top. There is a dusting of saffron over a dry red rose. It would have an arid, desolate feel if it weren’t for the oud, which presents itself right from the beginning as a big, slightly-sour and intensely rubbery note of wood smoke. It’s an incredibly different take on oud, bearing in mind that most oud-centric scents opt to smell skanky or medicinal, and although it’s a novel effect I wouldn’t ever call it unsettling. This is an oud for the western world remember!

As Oud Wood dries down it becomes creamier with lots of vanilla, sandalwood and amber. It can be a bit of a shapeshifter after a couple of hours,  alternating from being silky/delicious to powdery/spicy with the rubber smoke of the oud being ever present as an undercurrent of middle eastern promise.

If you like oud (or even if you don’t for that matter) then do try Oud Wood, I think you might find yourself pleasantly surprised. I included it in The Candy Perfume Boy’s Guide to Oud as “The Stylish Oud” because it epitomises the stylish Tom Ford aesthetic; dashingly handsome, impeccably preened and unashamedly masculine.

Availability

Oud Wood is part of Tom Ford’s Private Collection which is limited to only a number of department stores, it is available in 50ml, 100ml and 250ml Eau de Parfum with prices ranging from £135-£300.

Grey Vetiver

The Notes

Top: Grapefruit, Orange Flower and Sage
Heart: Nutmeg, Pimento and Orris
Base: Oakmoss, Amber and Woods

How Does it Smell?

Grey Vetiver is Mr. Butterworth’s latest Tom Ford jam, having received it for his birthday just under a month ago. Mr. Butterworth, as you probably would have guessed, is rather traditional in his fragrance tastes. I don’t mean that as a criticism, far from it actually, what I mean is that he likes the classic style of masculines so it will be no surprise to you that he quite likes vetiver.

There are approximately a billion and one vetiver fragrances on this planet and very few of them are worth approaching. Guerlain’s Vetiver is very much the standard bearer of the genre with Frederic Malle’s Vetiver Extraordinaire being often seen as the new kid on the block, and the polar opposite to Guerlain’s classic. Grey Vetiver sits somewhere in between the two, right smack bang in the middle of the classic and the modern.

Grey Vetiver is a wonderfully retro vetiver, it opens with a big blast of hissy, sulphuric grapefruit and herbs. Right from the outset it has a strong barbershop vibe thanks to strong vanilla and coumarin nuances. I’d also swear that there’s a touch of lavender lurking in there somewhere…

With time Grey Vetiver becomes less barbershop and more department store. It slides into a comfortable base of moss (relatively clean moss that is), powder and woods. I think it would be fair to say that it doesn’t quite deliver in the dry down and I would have preferred it to be a bit bolder and dirtier in its final stages, but that’s a minor niggle with what can only be considered a very solid offering.

If you already own Guerlain’s vetiver then you might be hard pressed to justify buying Grey Vetiver (unless you are fume head of course, we can justify any purchase with our own crazy brand of logic), they are different fragrances yes, but not so vastly different that you would need both in the same collection. That said, Grey Vetiver is a very good fragrance, and much better than a lot of masculine vetivers out there, I would highly recommend it.

Availability

Grey Vetiver is available in 50ml and 100ml Eau de Parfum with prices ranging from £60-£75. A matching aftershave balm (£30) is also available.

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Disclaimer

Image 1 my own merged with one of Mr. Ford. Image 2 pic2fly.com. Image 3 iperfume-t.com. Image 4 okazje.info.pl. Notes via osmoz.com

SWOON

Traipse through your local department store and you will find a barren landscape virtually void of decent masculine fragrances. Alright I’m being dramatic, of course there are a few noteworthy ones (mainly older releases), but on the whole the majority; your Calvins, Hugos and your Pacos, are definitely essays in quantity over quality. A good masculine is hard to find, it’s true, but it’s not entirely impossible.

Tom Ford is a man that cares about quality. His fragrance line, especially his signature collection, is a cut above most designer offerings (and is priced accordingly) and he has most definitely crafted out his own style, that off opulent, classy and smart fragrances with a tiny touch of the shock factor for which he is infamous.

Noir (pronounced “Noo-ahr” if you are Tom Ford) is the latest masculine addition to Tom Ford’s signature stable and it is in good company, joining such esteemed fragrances as Tom Ford for Men, Tom Ford Extreme and Grey Vetiver. But where the other TF masculines are elegant examples of citrus, woods and/or vetiver, Noir is a essay on resins and powders that, dare I say it, almost feels like a masculine rendition of the Oriental Queen that is Guerlain’s Shalimar.

Tom Ford is ever so handsome but he doesn’t half talk a load of rubbish at times…

The Notes

Top: Bergamot, Verbena, Caraway, Pink Pepper and Violet
Heart: Black Pepper, Nutmeg, Tuscan Iris, Geranium, Bulgarian Rose and Clary Sage
Base: Opoponax, Amber, Indonesian Patchouli Leaf, Vetiver, Civet and Vanilla

How Does it Smell?

Now that I’ve mentioned a ‘Manly Shalimar’ you’re probably thinking that Noir is all vanilla and powder, and yes it is, but not to start with, that stuff comes later. In the beginning Noir is bitter, green and spicy just to the right degree. I enjoy the fact that it feels relatively dry and dusty in the opening, which makes for a pleasant contrast to the more plush aspects that develop over time.

As the initial harshness fades Noir becomes incredibly warm and powdery. The dustiness remains prominent and shrouds a blend of softly spiced rose and iris with beautifully refined dust. There is a little touch of something retro-barbershop hidden beneath the more lavish aspects, and whilst it may only be a subtle hint it stands to remind you that Noir, which really could be considered as unisex (can’t everything?), was made with the dudes in mind.

Then comes the best part: the base. Noir’s base is very much a tug of war between rich balsams and smooth, powdery vanilla & leather and this is the part where Noir is at its most Shalimar-esque but It’s nowhere nearly quite as delicious as Shalimar (or utterly mind-blowing for that matter) but it definitely feels as it could have been cut from the same cloth, or at least a reproduction of Shalimar’s print.

Noir is an incredibly handsome fragrance that would work perfectly for cosy mooching in your pyjamas just as well as it would for when you need to smell as dapper as you look in your smartest suit. I don’t think I have tried a better mainstream masculine release this year (although I’m definitely not done with my sniffing yet), my only niggle is that the name ‘Noir’, which is totally overused in fragrance IMHO, doesn’t fit the scent at all. Anyway, slightly off-kilter name aside I must admit that the Noir man is a very handsome man indeed…

Availability

Noir is available in 50ml and 100ml Eau de Parfum with prices ranging from £60-£75.

Disclaimer

Image 1 johnlewis.com. Video via Tom Ford on YouTube. Notes via Basenotes.

The Candies 2012

I can’t believe it but it’s the end of 2012 already, which means that it’s time for us perfume bloggers to put together our lists of the very best and very worst perfumes of the year, honestly, where did the time go?! This year I’m affectionately entitling my awards ‘The Candies’ as a short, punchy alternative to The Candy Perfume Boy Awards. Neat huh?

Across all genres there have been many interesting, exciting and unique perfumes unleashed on to the market along with the usual amount of celebrity dreck, dud flankers and down-right-bizarre niche offerings. All-in-all it’s been a busy year with over 1,300 launches. Impressive but exhausting!

Below you will find my awards for Best Masculine, Best Feminine and Best Unisex Fragrances for both niche and mainstream houses. In addition to this I’ve also included awards for Best Flanker, Best Celebrity Fragrance and Best Ad Campaign. But we’re not just celebrating the very best of perfumery in 2012 here, no sir, we’re also highlighting the very worst with the Sour Candy Award, reserved solely for the naffest perfume of the year.

So I hope you’re wearing your very best frock (or tux for the boys, or frock if you prefer, it’s up to you really) and sipping on some fine Champagne as The Candies 2012 are underway…

Best Niche Feminine: Loretta by Tableau de Parfums

Picking the Best Niche Feminine was really quite difficult this year and I must admit that I did go back and forth narrowing down my choices. That said, I kept coming back to the same conclusion for the number one spot and it’s hard for me to argue against Loretta by Tableau de Parfums being awarded the accolade of Best Niche Feminine.

For Loretta, Andy Tauer took inspiration from the larger-than-life fruit-tinged florals of the 80s, however instead of just rehashing the past he added something rather spectacular; the smell of hot engine parts and machinery. Loretta is a truly fascinating perfume that is matched by the fact that it is so beautiful, albeit in a rather unconventional way.

Huge kudos to Andy Tauer as always…

Honourable Mention: Mito by Vero Profumo

Honourable Mention: Séville à L’Aube by L’Artisan Parfumeur

Best Niche Masculine: Interlude Man by Amouage

This wouldn’t be a Best of the Best list without the inclusion of at least one Amouage (last year Honour Woman won Best Feminine) and this year it’s a masculine that takes the prize. Interlude Man is easily the standout masculine of the year, wiping the floor with both the niche and mainstream competition.

Created to represent a moment of peace amongst the chaos of everyday life, Interlude Man is a heady mixture of chaotic materials such as leather, birch tar and wood smoke swirled together with softer notes such as vanilla. The effect is delicious like a vanilla bonfire but simultaneously unsettling making for one of the most interesting and enjoyable masculines in a very long while.

Honourable Mention: Fils de Dieu du Riz et des Agrumes by Etat Libre d’Orange

Best Niche Unisex: OUD by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

I think I speak for many when I say that, on the whole, we’re all sick of oud perfumes. Don’t get me wrong I enjoy oud as much as the next guy, but with so many brands opting for simple oud/rose compositions, the lack of ingenuity can get tiring. BUT, and as you can see this is a big ‘but’, even among the overwhelming onslaught of oud launches there are still one or two surprises to be had.

One of these surprises comes from Maison Francis Kurkdjian (a house that is quickly becoming a favourite of mine) and it is so different and impressive compared to just about every other oud that it wins the award for Best Niche Unisex.

OUD really is an oud unlike any other, it pairs the leathery, medicinal and almost chemical facets of the noble rot with blindingly bright citrus and a metric ton of Kurkdjian’s favoured laundry musks. It is definitely a perfume that is not for everyone but that’s part of what I like about it, it is incredibly clever and not at all what I expected.

Honourable Mention: Oud Ispahan by Christian Dior

Best Mainstream Feminine: Jour d’Hermès by Hermès

I haven’t been entirely impressed with the mainstream feminine launches this year, there have been quite a few duds (Coco Noir, Dot & La Vie est Belle, to name just a few) but luckily for me (and you too) the trusty house of Hermès came rushing to the rescue with a December release that saved the day.

Jour d’Hermès, like Kurkdjian’s OUD, is a fragrance that serves as a reminder that perfume still has the ability to surprise. Created by Jean-Claude Ellena it is a big 3D, almost cartoon-like, green and dewy floral that explodes on the skin. It is simply a joy to behold.

Honourable Mention: La Petite Robe Noire (Relaunch) by Guerlain

Best Mainstream Masculine: Noir by Tom Ford

I think it’s Robin of Now Smell This that has said that she prefers Tom Ford’s Signature Collection to his Private Blends, and I’d have to say that I agree. There’s something about the highly polished and dramatic feel of each fragrance in the signature line that just seems to be more in line with Mr. Ford’s aesthetic than the vastly over-priced Private Blends.

Tom Ford tends to err towards heavier scents that seem to be a mixture of classic perfumery and a weirdly attractive cheap-trash vibe. My Designer Masculine of the year: Noir, is no exception. It very much feels like a modern, masculine interpretation of Guerlain’s Shalimar, showcasing the powdery and balsamic notes of the classic but adding some manly spice to jazz it up a bit.

Noir is a confident and finely-tuned masculine (that a lot of you ladies could rock btw) that nicely places the old and the new together in one, neat and handsome package.

Honourable Mention: Homme L’Eau Boisée by Guerlain

Honourable Mention: Spicebomb by Viktor & Rolf

Best Mainstream Unisex: L’Ambre des Merveilles by Hermès

I may be cheating slightly here as I don’t think L’Ambre des Merveilles is technically being marketed as unisex, but hey I’m allowed to tweak things just a little, and anyway if it isn’t it damn well should be!

It is also important to say that I haven’t got round to finishing off my review of L’Ambre des Merveilles yet, having been distracted by Christmas presents, seeing family and food (mostly the food) so I shall keep this little summary short and sweet. Why is L’Ambre des Merveilles the Best Mainstream Unisex perfume of 2012? I’ll tell you why; it’s a mixture of salty skin, biscuit-like amber and the briny brightness of the original Eau de Merveilles – what’s not to love?!

Honourable Mention: Aqua Allegoria Lys Soleia by Guerlain

Best Flanker: Petit Fracas by Robert Piguet

It seems funny to have an award for the best flanker as they often tend to be derivative, unimaginative and down right confusing (flankers of flankers anyone?), but it is true to say that without flankers we wouldn’t have amazing perfumes such as Hypnotic Poison. So yes, they may be annoying at times, but flankers certainly have a place on our department store shelves.

This year’s Best Flanker award goes to a perfume that serves as an introduction to one of the most classic florals of all time: Petit Fracas by Robert Piguet. The reason why this ‘Little Fracas‘ is so good is the fact that there is absolutely nothing minuscule about it, in fact it is just as loud and raucous as the original, yet it opts for a mixture of fresh fruit and chocolate to add a fun new twist.

Honourable Mention: Alien Essence Absolue by Thierry Mugler

Best Celebrity Fragrance: Truth or Dare by Madonna

The best celebrity fragrances tend to be those that; a) come from celebrity’s who actually give two hoots about scent; and b) are created in line with said celebrity’s tastes. Madonna’s first (and rather tardy) foray into the world of celebuscents manages to tick both of these boxes.

Truth or Dare is a big, buxom white floral that stems from M’s love for classic tuberose fragrances such as Robert Piguet’s Fracas. But what makes it interesting, and really enjoyable, is that this classic bouquet of white flowers is contrasted by a whole heap of snuggly benzoin and marshmallow that gives the whole thing a rather modern touch.

No other celebrity fragrance this year has managed to accurately encapsulate the personality of the star behind it quite as well as Truth or Dare; it’s a big bombastic white floral, now tell me that doesn’t suit the Queen?!

Honourable Mention: Dita Von Teese Eau de Parfum

Best Ad Campaign: La Petite Robe Noire by Guerlain

I think I said in my original review of La Petite Robe Noire (the 2009 version) that it was wasted as a boutique exclusive and it appears that Guerlain had the very same thought, deciding to give the scent a mainstream launch, along with a fancy ad campaign, earlier this year.

There is literally nothing I don’t like about this ad campaign. It’s fun, french and incredibly Guerlain. It perfectly captures the vivacity of La Petite Robe Noire and everything from the jagged cartoon drawings to the dress labels used for tester strips come across as a stroke of genius. Chanel must be kicking themselves for not copywriting that name…

Honourable Mention: Fame by Lady Gaga

Sour Candy Award: Fame by Lady Gaga

The Sour Candy Award is reserved for the very worst perfume of the year. Lady Gaga’s Fame was an easy choice for the award, not because it is the worst smelling perfume released this year (although it comes pretty close) but because it is by far the most disappointing.

Lady Gaga could have literally released ANYTHING and it would have sold like hot cakes. So why on earth she decided to bottle a watered down version of Britney Spears’ Fantasy (which is a pretty good ‘fume BTW) that smells just like a carbon copy of every other celebuscent is beyond me.

For Fame Lady Gaga opted to go for style (fancy black fluid) over substance and that is why it has the honour of winning 2012′s Sour Candy award. She should be ashamed.

Dishonourable Mention: Coco Noir by Chanel

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Join the Discussion!

What were your favourite fragrances of 2012?

Did you discover anything new and exciting this year?

Do you agree with my choices?

Please leave your thoughts in the comments box below!

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Disclaimer

Image 1. Image 2 vimeo.com (cropped). Image 3 culturaeculture.it (cropped). Image 4 rarecosmetics.com. Images 5, 8 & 17 fragrantica.com. Image 6 nkdman.co.uk. Image 7 basenotes.net. Images 9 & 14 hermes.com. Image 10 douglas.de. Images 11 & 13 johnlewis.co.uk. Image 12 lecritiquedeparfum.blogspot.com. Image 15 tecnoellas.com. Image 16 via Robert Piguet. Image 18 madonnax.tumblr.com (cropped). Image 19 theperfumeshop.com. Image 20 lachanelphile.com (cropped).

Scent Up Your Life!

The Scent a Celebrity Series is my vain attempt at picking perfumes for those who don’t know any better, yes I mean celebrities. Let’s face it, most celebrities are incapable of choosing decent clothing/boyfriends/girlfriends/movies/insert-celebrity-mistake-here let alone having the ability to make decisions about something as important as their scent – that’s where I come in. Never fear my dear schlebs, I will ensure that you are appropriately scented, all you need to do is listen.

I am a child of the ’90s and I am not ashamed. Yes fashion-wise it was probably one of the worst decades but musically it was pretty ace, for it was the ’90s that bought us Brit Pop, Rave music and most importantly – The Spice Girls. Ginger, Baby, Sporty, Scary and Posh may have long gone their separate ways but I (and many other ’90s kids I’m sure) still hold a soft spot for these persistant purveyors of ‘Girl Power’.

To celebrate the world’s very best girl band I offer up a scented tribute of perfume selections that showcase the ‘zig-a-zag-ah’ that gave the Spice Girls their power. Mad, bad, ridiculous and brilliantly feminine these perfumes invite you to ‘Scent up your life’ and live just like the coolest thing to come out of the ’90s since MC Hammer and his Harem Pants.

Viva Forever – The Spice Girls’ Magnum Opus

Posh

Posh spice was, and still is my least favourite Spice Girl because she never really did much and had the least talent, that is unless you consider looking miserable a talent, which I don’t for the record. Serious, po-faced and clad all in black our dear Mrs. Beckham needs a perfume that has style but lacks a sense of humour.

For Posh Spice the only fragrance that fits is Tom Ford’s Black Orchid. Mr. Ford’s first perfume offering is suitably fashion coloured (black is the new black don’t you know) and takes itself far too seriously. That said, it’s pretty fabulous and this blogger enjoys it much more than he should – much like our good friend Lady Posh.

Baby

Baby Spice was the antithesis of Posh, capturing all that is soft, pink and fluffy as opposed to black, austere and harsh. Despite her obviously ‘cute’ exterior Baby Spice always had a cheeky and mischievous air about her that gave the impression that things could descend into serious, glitter-filled mayhem at any moment.

The perfect perfume to capture both the sweet and fun sides of Baby Spice is Insolence Eau de Toilette by Guerlain. With it’s fizzy hairspray note, juicy red berries and huge violet bomb of baby powder Insolence is a perfume that does not feel the need to behave and revels in being loud, proud and shockingly pink.

Scary

Don’t ask me why but Scary Spice was always my favourite Spice Girl, I think I might even go as far as to say that I had a small crush on her as a tween. Clad in leopard print and rocking some of the biggest hair seen since the 80′s Scary Spice always struck me as wonderfully tacky.

‘Wonderfully tacky’ leads me to think of a perfume that is gaudy in an attractive way - Roberto Cavalli Eau de Parfum to be precise. Rocking zebra print and an incredibly tacky gold crown Roberto Cavalli EDP’s bottle fits the bill just as much as the hyper-sweet cocktail of syrupy white flowers (so syrupy in fact it smells quite similar to Calpol) released by the perfume. As with Mel B, Cavalli is a guilty pleasure that is hard to justify to those more sensible people around you.

Sporty

Sporty Spice definitely got the raw deal – having the most talent yet always being forced to wear tracksuits cannot be good for anyone – and I take it as a personal challenge to make up for her years of pain by not selecting a sporty perfume within this list.

Listening to Mel C’s solo stuff it is easy to forget her spice roots and to pick up on a more ethereal quality. This ‘airy-ness’ combined with the strong ’90s feel of Sporty’s look is reminiscent of the scent that defined the decade – CK One by Calvin Klein. CK One summed up all that was good – fun synthetics – and bad – thin, wan scents – about the ’90s, just like the Spice Girls really – marketing over substance.

Ginger

Ginger Spice was, and possibly still is, the most iconic member of the Spice Girls. She was the loudest, brashest and most obscene – the glitziest, most glamorous Spice that single-handedly embodied the movement of girl power. Attention seeking was the name of Ginger’s game and she requires a scent that is so colourful it verges on the brink of being annoying.

I know I bang on and on (and on) about Thierry Mugler on this blog but the only option for good old Ginge is Angel. What could suit Geri Halliwell more than a ladette fragrance that demands the attention of everyone it comes into contact with? Nothing, absolutely nothing – Angel is the only answer.

Join the Discussion!

Which was your favourite Spice Girl?

Do you agree with my choices?

Which scents would you choose for Posh, Baby, Scary, Sporty and Ginger?

Please leave your thoughts in the comments box below!